Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
